Monday, January 25, 2010

Tips for seeking out a great B.C. wine

Here's the scoop: In the wild and wacky world of B.C. wine, beer and liquor labeling, the race for gold is already well under way.

And the Hired Belly is now thinking that maybe the Cellared in Canada debacle is a mere drop in the ocean (so to speak) of what awaits unsuspecting Olympic visitors.

(We should note that as far as "C in C" goes, not only has Vincor applied itself to ensure that all Esprit wines are now labelled VQA; and that the official sponsor expects to contribute some $1.5 million the Canadian Olympic Team and VANOC come Games time.)


However, the real question is: When it comes to what's in the bottle (beer or wine) how many visitors will wind up paying too much for something that isn't what they think it might be?

These days, with the number of new wineries real and imagined popping up on the radar it's hard enough for locals to keep track -- let alone unwary visitors.

No. We're not going to single out the suspects but here are a couple of suggestions you might pass on to anyone asking, "Just what should I be buying that's worthy and emblematic of BC?"

First of all, look for transparency, preferably a wine from a long established winery -- and ideally with a note on the label or back as to, specifically, where the grapes originate. If it shows a winemaker's or vintage comments -- even better.

Secondly, favour true estate wineries over less obvious catchy brands. It's a fundamental failing in our standards that we continue to allow wineries to use the term "estate

when they don't own even a row of vines.

Above all, be leery of overhyped, "cachet" wines in glorious packaging that promise the earth, moon and stars, and everything in between. And, when in doubt, don't hesitate to talk to a knowledgeable store consultant.

Two words: when it comes to liquid souvenirs: Caveat Emptor -- buyer beware!

- - -

Speaking of pioneers and dedication, and people here for the long run, winemaker Howard Soon was in Vancouver last week to celebrate the naming of Sandhill as Wine Access Magazine's Canadian Winery of the Year.

In our mind, the award couldn't have gone to a more deserving winery -- though Howard is quick to note it's thanks to "the support of our outstanding grape growers who have embraced Sandhill's single vineyard philosophy, and played a key role in our success."

Indeed, the first folks we met heading into the event speak volumes for Soon's very grounded philosophy and vision for the company that he spearheaded 12 years ago, with the aid of grape guru Richard Cleave, and others.

Walking our way were long-time Penticton growers Rod and Marjorie King, whose King Family Vineyards (owned with Rod's brother Don) have been a linchpin in the evolution of success stories such as Sandhill Pinot Gris -- surely one of the best examples of B.C. Pinot Gris, that delivers consistent quality and value at its price point.

(Think hints of tropical and stone fruit with a gentle streak of juicy acidity that makes it a shoo-in for lightly sauced seafood. BCLS $17.99.)

No wonder Soon was sure to bring them to Vancouver to help celebrate his moment in the sun.

It's also worth noting that of all the majors, Calona Vineyards was the first to seriously address the issue of 'bottled' and 'cellared' in Canada wines ...

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