New Zealand is bewitching. I've travelled there on several occasions and it never fails to enthrall me. The wines in particular are fascinating and it's remarkable to think that barely forty years ago all that was produced there was bland, soapy muller-thurgau.
There are the inimitable sauvignon blancs of Marlborough; the silky pinots of Martinborough and Central Otago; the bordeaux blends and syrahs of Hawke's Bay; and the rieslings and gewürztraminers of Nelson and Gisborne. And they get better every year.
They're not cheap, but in Britain we love them (sales are at an all-time high) and are prepared to pay for them. On average, we spend £6.25 on a bottle of Kiwi wine, but only £4.82 on French, £4.49 on Australian and £4.30 on everything else.
Most of New Zealand's 570 wineries are family-owned and boutique – unlike in Australia there are few big brands.
Names I look out for include Man O'War, Kumeu River, Seresin Estate, Craggy Range, Forrest Estate, Mount Difficulty, Te Awa Farm, Palliser Estate, C J Pask and Foxes Island, although the best are too pricey for everyday. Here then – in no particular order – are 10 great Kiwi wines that won't (except maybe the last one) break the bank.
1 2005 John Forrest Collection Noble Riesling, 9%vol (£19.99 per 37.5cl; Adnams 01502 727272).
Wine lovers are in for a real treat now that the European Union's bizarre embargo on New Zealand's sweet wines has been lifted. This absolute peach from Marlborough is on the high seas as I write and will be available from March. Richly sweet, but with fresh, fine riesling acidity and complex whiffs of petrol and marmalade, it's wonderful on its own or with tarte tatin. Definitely a wine worth waiting for.
2 2009 Villa Maria Private Bin Chardonnay/Viognier, 14%vol (£5.99 reduced from £7.99 until March 16; Waitrose).
The family-owned Villa Maria winery (established 1961) has done much to popularise New Zealand wine and makes excellent and approachable wines at affordable prices. This novel Gisborne blend of chardonnay, viognier and a splash of pinot gris is no exception. Full of creamy peach and fresh apricot fruit, it's delicious with sushi and sashimi.
3 2007 Hawksburn Terrace Pinot Noir, 14%vol, (£11.99 reduced from £17.80 until Feb 28; Bibendum 020 7449 4120).
It's a little over 20 years since the first Central Otago pinot noir hit the market and they've come a long way. The best are exceptional, the second best still need work (and vine age). This is in the former category, with a heady scent and buckets of sweet juicy fruit. It's an utter delight, especially at this price, held especially for Telegraph readers until the end of this month.
4 2009 Spy Valley Riesling, 13%vol (£9.50; Wine Society 01438 740222)
Marlborough is best known for its remarkable sauvignon blancs, but ''aromatics'' such as riesling, gewürztraminer and pinot gris also thrive. Spy Valley – so-called because of its giant golf ball-like government listening post – is a fine spot for such varieties and this riesling is charming. It makes a delicious aperitif.
5 2007 Kaituna Hills Reserve Merlot Cabernet, 13.5%vol (£8.99; Marks & Spencer).
Hawke's Bay is proving hugely exciting for red wines, primarily straight syrahs or Bordeaux blends such as this. Made from 75 per cent merlot and 25 per cent cabernet, it is barrel-fermented and aged in oak for 15 months. With soft, smooth, supple fruit, a gentle touch of sweetness, and a stylish structure, it's the Kiwi equivalent of cru bourgeois claret. Perfect with a Sunday roast.
6 2009 Fern Bay Sauvignon Blanc, 12.5%vol (£5.61; Tesco).
Forty years ago nobody in Marlborough had heard of sauvignon blanc; today they're producing some of the finest in the world. The best are expensive and supermarkets have worked hard to bring in cheaper versions. Sadly, few cut the mustard. But this example shipped by Tesco (and bottled in Britain) shows the tropical gooseberry character we've come to expect.
7 2008 Jackson Estate 'Vintage Widow' Pinot Noir, 14%vol (£14.39 if you buy two as part of a mixed half dozen; Majestic).
Martinborough and Central Otago are generally thought to be the best places for pinot noir in New Zealand, but there are some crackers coming out of Marlborough, too. This is wonderfully intense and concentrated, with hints of chocolate, pepper and spice. It's a great price and best enjoyed with a rich meaty casserole or stew.
8 2008 Millton Vineyards Te Arai Chenin Blanc, 12%vol (£11.50; Vintage Roots 0800 980 4992).
Organic/biodynamic pioneer James Millton is gloriously eccentric and makes superlative wines at his Manutuke estate in Gisborne. His viognier is one of the best examples of that grape I've tasted and this chenin blanc is benchmark stuff, with rich, vibrant fruit, keen acidity and abundant freshness. Enjoy it with a salmon
stir-fry.
9 2007 Vidal Estate Syrah, 14%vol (£9.99; Waitrose).
The syrahs of the Gimblett Gravels in Hawke's Bay are coming of age and developing their own identity rather than just imitating the Rhône. And although still young, this shows where they're headed. With pepper and spice, plenty of dark cherry/blackberry fruit and soft supple tannins, it's surprisingly forward. Drink now with roast lamb shank and dauphinoise potatoes or tuck away for a few months.
10 Lindauer Rosé NV, 12%vol, (£7.19 if you buy an unmixed dozen, otherwise £8.99; Oddbins).
This is easy to drink, undemanding and one of the best bottle-fermented fizzes available in this price bracket. Made from pinot noir, chardonnay and – surprisingly enough – a touch of pinotage, it is a disarming pale pink, clean, crisp and fresh with a delicate wild strawberry character. Try it with rare roast beef salad.
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