Five wines that triumph over the latest contenders

Santa Carolina Barrica Selection 2008 Chardonnay $13.95 (Chile)

While this is not Santa Carolina’s top drawer chard, it tastes like it. The aromas show buttery apple and peach elements. The flavours show apricot, guava, peach and golden apple, with a refreshing lime-accented finish.


Astrolabe Voyage 2009 Sauvignon Blanc $19.95 (New Zealand)

This is a classic Marlborough-styled Sauvignon. Piquant aromas of gooseberry, pear, tropical guava and a typical hint of tomato leaf. The flavours dish up silky gooseberry and tart lime zest, with a touch of pineapple on the finish.

Monasterio De Las Vinas Reserva 2005 $12.95 (Spain)

Classic minty sandalwood, black cherry, cedar and vanilla aromas lead into minty ripe black cherry, cedar, and black summer plum flavours. The texture is super silky and smooth on the palate. No rough edges at all.


Rocca Delle Macie 2006 Chianti Riserva $15 (Italy)

This stellar value is back by popular acclaim. Complex aromas display graphite, smoke, blackberry, brambleberry and a hint of cassis. The flavours show sweet-edged cherry, licorice and blackberry depth. Terrific length, too.

Phelps Creek Becky’s Cuvée 2007 Pinot Noir $26.95 (Oregon)

It’s called cuvée because it is a blend of selected grapes from six vineyards. Lovely floral black cherry, vanilla bean and cherry wood aromas. The flavours are persistent, with refined earthy beetroot and black cherry layers.

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Wine woos China's chic

China is mad for wine. At the Haagen Dazs cafe in the trendy Xintiandi district, well-heeled Shanghai urbanites decide between Rum Raisin and Cookies 'n Cream to go with their Chilean Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. While a wine glass might not grace every dining table in China, wine has become a symbol of a desirable urban lifestyle, equal parts sophistication and quirky enthusiasm.

Most wine drinkers live in major cities like Shanghai, Beijing, Shenzhen, and Guangzhou, but its popularity is spreading to other second-tier and even third-tier cities, and has entwined itself in popular culture. "Just switch on the TV. Wine is everywhere," said Thomas Julien, a Hong Kong-based wine trade consultant.

Imported wines, with hefty import duties, are out of the reach of the average consumer, so more than 90 percent of the 1.2 billion bottles of wine consumed last year was domestic, according to distributor Torres China."Domestic" is best defined as having been bottled in China, but containing a creative blend of wine from various Chinese regions, foreign countries, as well as grape varieties and vintages not expressly listed on the label.

Newly affluent Chinese consumers, brand-conscious and eager to learn about wine, flock to tastings and classes held at wine bars and shops, which are typically owned by wine producers or distributors.

While Western winemakers fret over marrying their wine with the Asian palate, Chinese consumers may be heading in their own direction.

"There is no concrete definition for the Asian Palate. It?s a dialogue, a journey, it is a term that is not yet defined," said Jeannie Cho Lee, a Hong Kong based wine critic and author

"Popular wines are light, not too alcoholic, not acidic, without heavy tannins," said Chinese winemaker Emma Gao Yuan, who studied at Bordeaux University's prestigious oenology department.

"But more educated Chinese people appreciate good wine and even have the same palate as the French or Americans. It's a question of education. It's like my husband (who is French) -- if I gave him a really top quality tea to drink, he wouldn't appreciate it."

"What is the definition of a grand vin?" asked Michel Rolland, an international wine consultant. "It?s our own definition -- we (in the West) created it.

"What does a grand vin mean for the Chinese? There will perhaps be a fine Chinese wine in 20 years, 30 years. Why should our taste be the universal taste? That?s a little arrogant."

Gao said the main image of wine comes from the cinema.

"A bottle of wine with a beautiful girl, romance, comedy, love story, luxury. Wine is really a good way to start an evening."

In addition to style and romance, red wine is associated with good health, a view bolstered by a government campaign to replace China's long-standing attachment to rice-based alcohol with wine.

"The government has announced a policy of reducing the production of rice-based alcohol," Gao told AFP.

"Four kilos of rice is needed to produce one kilo of rice alcohol, and we have a lot of people who don't have enough to eat. The government has even banned rice alcohol from official dinners. Wine is served instead."

At the same time, the growing Chinese middle class is not only drinking wine but they are travelling. Savvy entrepreneurs, including the government, are cashing in on wine tourism.

Not far from the Terracotta Warrior museum in Xian, which draws millions every year, renowned architect and dean of the University of California's School of Architecture, Ma Qingyun, built a modernist spa and winery in Jade Valley.

His wines are getting rave reviews. As a sign of things to come, Grace Vineyards is also building a winery in the area.

In eastern China's Shandong province, there is Penglai, which draws three million Chinese tourists to its stunning 1,000-year-old royal pavillion. The local government has launched a full-blown wine tourism industry.

The Penglai Association of Vine and Wine proudly promotes its region as one of the Seven Grape Coasts in the World, in good company with the Medoc, Tuscany, Cape Town, Barossa Valley, Napa and Chile's Casablanca.

Sixty mega-wineries dot the landscape, with 10 more to open in the next year, all with hotel rooms.

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12 Reasons to Look Beyond the Usual Wine Selections

IT’S entirely possible to go through life eating nothing but the most familiar foods, reading books by the customary best-selling authors or listening to a stock set of composers. Taking great pleasure in the same things over and over is not a bad thing.

Similarly, many people are content to drink only well-known wines. Why not? They satisfy again and again. Alas, producers around the world learned years ago that they could exploit the desire for the familiar, planting a lot of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and other international grapes, regardless of the local traditions, to appeal to a global market.

I understand the thinking, yet the world of wine has so much more to offer. For anybody truly curious about the glorious extent of wine, now is the greatest time in history to be a wine lover. Never before has such a vast diversity of wines been available to so many people. Many are made from unfamiliar grapes, grown in little-known places, yet they offer thrilling drinking for those eager for new experiences.

Like sea creatures discovered at colossal depths, these unfamiliar wines are not new at all. Many represent traditions that reach back centuries. Sadly, in some cases, these traditions barely hang on. The survival of the diversity we now enjoy depends partly on building appreciation of these little known grapes and wines. In other cases, the grapes, though uncommon, have already gained a following.

Either way, here are a dozen obscure grapes that are the foundation of some wonderful wines and will reward intrepid explorers.

ASSYRTIKO, from the volcanic island of Santorini in the Aegean Sea produces dry, deliciously minerally wines that are superb with seafood and just about any other light dish that smacks of the Mediterranean. If you like assyrtiko, it’s worth exploring other Greek white-wine grapes like moschofilero and roditis. Top producers: Gaia, Sigalas and Spyros Hatziyiannis.

BLAUFRÄNKISCH, a red grape grown mostly in the Burgenland region of eastern Austria, can produce gorgeously savory wines that combine the grace of pinot noir and the spice of syrah. Producers worth seeking include Moric, Paul Achs, Umathum and, from Carnuntum, a region north of the Bergenland, Muhr-Van der Niepoort.

FRAPPATO, from southeastern Sicily, makes lovely, fresh and lively wines that are delicious summer reds, especially when lightly chilled. When frappato is combined with nero d’Avola, it makes the slightly more substantial Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which goes wonderfully with a wide range of foods. Producers to seek out include Arianna Occhipinti, COS and Valle dell’Acate.

FUMIN comes from the Vallée d’Aoste, the peculiar Alpine borderland that is technically Italian, though the language is French. In the hands of a top producer, like Grosjean, fumin makes a spicy, floral red that can be complex and structured. I love these Alpine wines, and a bottle of the Grosjean fumin may cause you to seek out other little-known grapes, like the superb red cornalin and the racy white petite arvine. Around $35 a bottle, these wines are not cheap but are stunningly good.

FURMINT, not to be confused with fumin, is the great white grape of Hungary. It’s a crucial constituent in the lavish sweet wine Tokaji aszu, and increasingly is being used in distinctive dry wines with rich textures and complex floral aromas. Look for producers like Kiralyudvar, Royal Tokaji, Dobogo, Oremus and Disznoko.

GRIGNOLINO, mostly from the Piedmont region of Italy, makes a pale, easy-drinking red that is fresh, slightly bitter and somewhat akin to frappato, but even lighter. A delicious wine for casual drinking, perhaps with salumi or pizza. I very much like the grignolino from Cascina ’Tavijn. Strangely, Heitz Cellar in Napa Valley also makes a little from an old eight-acre vineyard. I’ve yet to find it, but am looking forward to trying it.

LAGREIN from the Trentino-Alto-Adige region of northeastern Italy produces earthy, minerally reds with the flavor of dark fruits that are enjoyably spicy and fresh. Look for wines from J. Hofstätter or Elena Walch.

MENCÍA is the source of excellent red wines from the regions of Ribeira Sacra and Bierzo in western Spain. The dense Bierzo reds have a haunting wild fruit flavor, but I’m partial to the lighter, more minerally wines from the steep, terraced vineyards of Ribeira Sacra. Look for Guímaro, Dominio do Bibei, Raúl Pérez and D. Ventura.

PINEAU D’AUNIS, an ancient red grape from the Touraine region of the Loire Valley, is once more finding favor in the more avant-garde wine bars of France and among discerning wine lovers. The wines can be spicy, peppery and, depending on the producer, attractively funky. Look for Domaine le Briseau, Domaine de Bellivière and Thierry Puzelat.

ROMORANTIN, another ancient grape from the Touraine, can make utterly succulent whites that are perfect balances between sharp citrus freshness and rounded floral, honeyed flavors. Cour-Cheverny is a tiny appellation that has been carved out to showcase Romorantin. François Cazin makes two versions: Le Petit Chambord is dry, while Cuvée Renaissance is slightly sweet.

TREIXADURA, when meticulously grown and vinified in the Ribeiro region of Spain, can make profound whites, richly textured and mineral-flavored, especially in the hands of a producer like Emilio Rojo. Wines from the godello grape are also well worth sampling.

TROUSSEAU, from the Jura region of France, makes lovely reds with a presence at odds with their light body. Top producers include Jacques Puffeney, Ganevat and Philippe Bornard.

Well, that’s a dozen, and I’m just starting. We haven’t even mentioned poulsard and savagnin from the Jura, or kerner from Germany, or even duras from Gaillac in southwestern France. Cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, even riesling and syrah, are only the beginning.

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Pinot chic

Pinot noir is not the most popular red wine in the United States even merlot outsells it almost 2-to-1, according to The Nielsen Co.

But pinot noir is arguably the most chic grape in the vineyard, which may explain why the variety has proved so troublesome.

Pinot noir vines are slow-growing, generally produce low grape yields, can be rather fussy about soils and demand cool weather conditions.

Pinot is also prone to mutation not something one necessarily wants in a vineyard.

And pinot has more clones than any other variety, according to the Wine Institute, a California trade group.

All of this may explain why so many winemakers, from Michigan to Mendocino, Mendoza to Marlborough, want to grow pinot noir.

It's a challenge, but when done right, the resulting wine can be extraordinary. This French-born grape is indeed grown around the world, but .

"The New Wine Lover's Companion" is right in declaring "few areas outside Burgundy make really great pinot noir wines."Is California one of these areas? Golden State vintners certainly hope so. Pinot noir is the No.1 red wine grape in Sonoma County, according to the Sonoma County Wine Grape Commission. Sonoma's Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast regions particularly meet pinot's stiff climatic demands. Pinot has also pumped up the wine business along California's Central Coast, from Monterey in the north to the various wine regions of Santa Barbara in the south.

Frankly, pinot noir can be challenging to the consumer too. Folks are drinking more of it — 11.9 percent more in the past year, Nielsen reports. That's the biggest volume increase for any grape variety over that time.

Yet, as "The New Wine Lover's Companion" notes, there's a big, bad gap between high and low quality pinots. That means you're probably going to have to pay, and pay a lot, to ensure you get the best pinot for your money.

What to do? Take advantage of free tastings at your local wine shop or liquor store, for one. There's likely to be a bottle of pinot out on the tasting table most weekends. Ask your store owner or clerk for recommendations; don't necessarily follow scores or rankings unless you find you tend to be in sync with those reviewers and publications doling out the numbers.

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Study suggests wine drinkers are swayed more by labels than flavour

You can’t judge a book by its cover but you can judge a wine by its label it seems after the American Association of Wine Economists who advise vineries to invest more in labelling than pressing grapes.

An Association investigation discovered that novices were able to determine a wines value without even uncorking it, they simply observed the quality of the drawings and type of words used.

The study revealed that non connoisseurs have developed an effective process of judgement which relates abstract art, landscape and words such as “supple”, “velvety” and “smoky” with expensive bottles. Images of animals meanwhile, alongside words such as “light”, “fresh” and “pleasing” were found to reference lower class goods.

Critically, this mental arithmetic (and not the wines flavour) was found to be the determining factor in a drinker’s enjoyment with people turning their noses up at perceived cheap drinks whilst quaffing apparently expensive brands.

Previous studies have unearthed an inability amongst the public to differentiate between cheap plonk and connoisseur wines with blind tasters unable to distinguish the most expensive ranges from the cheapest, with a bias toward preference of the lowest cost varieties evident.

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Wines of the week

Rose wines are taking more and more space on supermarket shelves - and now is the perfect time to enjoy them. Here are some good-value pink fizzes to drink in the open air on a warm summer's day. Bellante Rose NV (Marks & Spencer, £2 off at £6.99 from next Monday) is.

An Italian sparkler once called Prosecco Raboso but renamed due to a change in Italian law. This refreshing, delicate pink wine has raspberry and pear fruit flavours and a crisp finish. Great for a celebration with nibbles and it's a match for light fish dishes.

Fine value taste the Difference Vintage Cava Rose Brut 2007 (Sainsbury's, £6.99), from Spain, is made by Cordoniu, has a fine mousse and is a skilful balance of herby, strawberry fruit and crisp, elegant dryness. A good choice for any outdoor event.

If you prefer a still rose, Chilano Merlot Rose 2009 (Morrisons, The Co-op, £5.99) is a fresh, deep-pink, juicy wine from Chile which combines sweet strawberry fruit with the hint of more tannic red cherry. Dry enough to enjoy both on its own or with chicken, grilled fish and pasta.

Vin de Pays d'Oc Syrah Rose (Spar, £4.99) from southern France has a nice summery balance of dryness, gentle raspberry fruit and a touch of spice.

Now for a couple of barbecue reds: Portuguese Tinto Rio Maior (Asda, £3.87), a full-flavoured, easydrinking, sweetcherry-fruited dark red and smooth, mediumbodied peppery, southern French blend Cuvee Chasseur Rouge 2009 (Waitrose, £3.99) are remarkable value.

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English wine beats champagne in IWC trophy

Camel Valley Wines in Cornwall knocked champagne giants off their pedestal by picking up an International Wine Challenge Trophy – beating more than 450 individual wines entered. It is the first time an English wine has ever won an IWC trophy, considered the most important of the many medals and honours awarded in the wine industry.

Each year IWC hands out many gold medals to wines it considers "best in class", and then it enters all the gold medal winners to the trophy competition. Only one trophy is handed out for each category, such as red wine, or sweet white wines. Camel Valley won in the sparkling rosé category.

Camel Valley, in Bodmin, Cornwall was set up by Bob Lindo, a former RAF pilot, and his wife Annie, who only started growing grapes in 1989. Their son Sam now runs the estate on a day-to-day basis.

Charles Metcalfe, the wine critic who is IWC Co-Chairman, said: "It's an amazing achievement because it's up against the might of champagne. To have beaten wines which have far bigger reputations and at much higher prices is an astonishing feat for a small English producer."

The sparkling rosé, which was first supported by Rick Stein, who stocked it in his Cornish restaurants, sells for £26.50 – a considerably lower price than the some of the more famous sparkling rosés such as Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé, which can sell for more than £700 a bottle. Sam Lindo said: "We're absolutely over the moon. Its excellent for us and for English wine, and we actually think England is one of the best places to make this style of wine."

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WA wine on show in Shanghai

Australian Agriculture Minister Terry Redman has embarked on a trade mission to promote West Australian wine to Chinese markets. A WA wine master class, which will promote about 20 local wines to international importers, is held at the World Expo in Shanghai this week. Mr Redman will also launch a WA wine book which profiles 100 wineries from around the state. Arelwood Wines' Terry Chellappah, whose wine is being featured in Shanghai, says the Chinese market is becoming a strong focus.

"We need to demonstrate to markets, not just in China but overseas, the quality of our wines and the fact that we deliver wines to various price points not just the bottom end, but certainly more importantly, medium to top end which is where they have to be to be sustainable." "We see it as a positive thing to be doing, not just as a low cost option for the Chinese market but to promote the quality and diversity of WA wine into the medium and top end of the market."

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