For tens of millions of people the world over, the beverage most often associated with New Year's Eve is champagne. This makes perfect sense, as no other wine has ever been as closely associated with the celebration of pleasant and hopeful events.
Despite the love many have for champagne, there are several things about this superb wine that are not well known. There are, for example, many kinds of sparkling wines, but only those from the region of France surrounding the cities of Reims and Epernay can be labeled as "champagne." Some of the best known sparkling wines are Spanish Cava, German Sekt and Italian Prosecco, but none of these can be called champagne. The name is so closely guarded, the producers of wine in the French-speaking village of Champagne, Switzerland are forbidden to put the name of their town on their bottles. Nor is it widely known that only three grapes can be used to produce champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
The white Chardonnay grape grows vigorously in the Champagne region, where it's considered the king of white grapes. With its relatively high acidity, Chardonnay adds liveliness in its youth and depth as the wine matures. The grape traditionally yields citrus, apple and peach aromas and flavors and sometimes notes of kiwi, guava and pineapple. As the wines mature, they also take on notes of cantaloupe. Although most champagne is blended with the other two permitted grapes, some are made entirely from Chardonnay and these are known as "blanc de blancs.
Pinot Noir, the black grape from which the great Burgundy wines are made, is more difficult to grow but is well worth the effort, as it provides the structure and depth of the wines of Champagne. Not as tannic as Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, the Pinot Noir grape provides the aromas and flavors of red fruits like cherries, raspberries, strawberries and red currants, and sometimes adds a spicy and light herbal note to the wines into which it is blended.
Pinot Meunier is probably the least known of the trio, but is no less important. Sometimes known simply as Meunier and in some villages as Black Riesling, the grape adds body and richness to champagne as well as a distinct mineral note. A spicy grape, rich in red currant, plum and cherry flavors and aromas, Pinot Meunier can also add charming notes of freshly baked bread. When a champagne is made entirely from Pinot Noir, or a blend of Pinot Noir and Meunier, the wine is known as a "blanc de noir" (literally a white wine made from black grapes; the color is clear because the skins of grapes that pass on color are removed immediately after the grapes are crushed ).
There are also grapes known as "Champagne grapes" (the more formal name of which is Corinth ), but these are most definitely not used in making champagne. Instead, they are usually dried and served as raisins.
As to when to drink champagne, there's no need to restrict oneself to Sylvester (what Israelis call New Year's Eve ), for the bubbly beverage goes as well with breakfast as with lunch, as well as an aperitif with most dinner dishes. From the humble hamburger to the sumptuous lobster Thermidor, champagne is always in order.
Following are reviews of several recently tasted champagnes now available locally, including a collection from the Moet & Chandon and others from equally respected champagne houses.
Champagnes for Sylvester
Moet & Chandon, Brut Champagne, Grand Vintage, 2000: Light golden in color, opening with aromas and flavors of yeasty white bread and going on to show citrus and apple fruits, supported nicely by hints of ginger, creme patissiere and stony minerals. A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir, 16% Pinot Munier, lingering long and comfortably on the palate. Drink now-2022. NIS 380. Score 94.
Moet & Chandon, Brut Rose, Grand Vintage, 2004: Rose petal pink toward salmon colored, the traditional blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier (41%, 39%, 20% ), showing medium, perhaps medium- to full-bodied, with aromas and flavors of blueberries, blackberres and cherries supported nicely by notes of mocha and white and black pepper. A good mousse, sharp and well-focused bubbles, and an enchanting mineral note that rises on the long finish. Drinking beautifully now, but don't hesitate to cellar through 2020. NIS 420. Score 92.
Moet & Chandon, Brut, Grand Vintage, Champagne, 2003: Straw gold in color, with fine, concentrated bubbles that go on and on, a blend of 43% Pinot Meunier, 29% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay. Medium- to full-bodied with fine concentration, showing a tempting array of citrus, peach, apricot and citrus pith aromas and flavors. Long and generous. Drink now-2018. NIS 380. Score 91.
Moet & Chandon, Brut Rose, Grand Vintage, Champagne, 2003: Pale straw in color, with a light yeasty note that runs through. A full-bodied blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay (48%, 30% and 22% ). Finely focused bubbles, showing a berry, cherry and citrus personality but lacking the complexity one hopes for in a fine rose champagne. Drink now-2013. NIS 420. Score 89.
Billecart-Salmon, Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart, Champagne, 1998: A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, those partly oak-aged. Light gold with an orange tint; on the opening nose hints of spring flowers and anise, yielding to aromas and flavors of summer fruits, orange and pears. A long mousse, finely focused bubbles and a remarkably long, near-creamy and elegant finish. Drink now-2025. NIS 840. Score 94.
Billecart-Salmon, Brut Reserve, Champagne, n.v.: Light golden straw in color, with a long mousse and long-lingering fine, concentrated bubbles; a blend of 50% Pinot Munier, 30% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. Opens with gentle aromas of spring flowers, pink grapefruit and rye, going on to show a rich mineral layer that highlights notes of pears and cantaloupe melon. Medium-bodied, floating comfortably on the palate and lingering nicely. NIS 414. Score 90.
Pol Roger, Brut Rose, Champagne, 1993: Pink toward orange-salmon in color, this medium- to full-bodied champagne is as rich and extracted as one could desire. Plenty of toasted bread and coffee flavors, offset beautifully by abundant but not exaggerated aromas and flavors of red berries and cherries. Drinking beautifully now, but will hold nicely for four to six years longer. NIS 640. Score 93.
Ruinart, Brut Rose Champagne, n.v.: Light- to medium-bodied, with a long mousse and sharp, well-focused bubbles. On the nose and palate lightly toasted wheat kernels, cherries, wild berries and citrus, complemented nicely by a note of freshly peeled tree bark. Long and generous. NIS 510. Score 92.
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