The Cellar: New Zealand’s World-Class Wines

This week we travel to the isolated country of New Zealand and visit some of the world’s southernmost vineyards. While production levels are fairly small, the reputation is anything but. In fact, winemakers in New Zealand are thought to be among the best producers of Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc in the world. For wine purposes, New Zealand is divided into two; the North Island and the South Island. The wine region of Marlborough, located on the northeastern tip of the Southern Island, is without a doubt the most famous wine-producing area. It is responsible for more than half of the country’s total production and more than 85% of New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc. Despite being one of the country’s sunniest and driest regions, this area is still considered a ‘cool climate’ region when compared to other wine growing regions around the world.

Tohu (translates into ‘signature’) is New Zealand’s first Maori-owned wine operation. The Maori are strong believers in the spiritual connection between the land and all that is grown on it, and make wine following the mantra that their wines are a gift from the land. The 2009 vintage is sourced from Tohu’s Upton Downs Road Vineyard. This particular site in Marlborough experienced a wet period in late winter of the 2009 growing season, but thankfully a long dry spring ensued, so the grapes were able to reach optimum ripeness while the cool nights helped the wine keep its acidity, crispness and herbaceousness. (The growing seasons are "reversed" as this is the southern hemisphere.)

The result is a delicious Sauvignon Blanc and a great example of the style and value that has made this region’s Sauvignon Blancs famous. It is only around $15 but it brings a lot of flavor and intensity to the table. The aromas are vibrant, the flavors pop in your mouth and they are long lasting. It’s a complex wine with flavors spanning from citrus and tropical fruits, while also displaying blossom, herb and mineral notes – all deliciously balanced with mouthwatering acidity.

Pinot Noir is the most widely planted red grape in New Zealand. When at their best, Pinot Noirs from Marlborough can rival the best in world - even those of Burgundy. The style of Pinot made in New Zealand varies from producer to producer with some focusing on the more fruit-forward style, while others produce wines that are earthier with more pronounced savory flavors. Because of these variations Pinot Noir is said to be among the most versatile food wines available. Depending on the style, Pinot’s can stand up to everything from fish and poultry to other protein-rich meats and even creamy sauces and heavy seasoning.

The 2009 Pinot Noir from Framingham is a blend of several base Pinot Noirs made from grapes harvested from four different sites around Marlborough’s Wairau Valley. The winemakers appear to have been focusing on making a style of Pinot that is a bit more fruit-driven, as this is a soft and approachable wine displaying red fruit and only a touch of the game, herbs and the savory characteristics that Pinot Noir sometimes exhibits. I would go as far as to say that regardless of which style of Pinot you like this wine is sure to please because it has a little bit of everything going for it.

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Wine state of mind

Domestic wines have become key players in changing preferences from hard liquor to wines Sonia Martis can’t believe she’s nursing a bottle of Rose wine that costs Rs 670 without taxes. While this is the approximate cost price for a regular bottle of Indian wine in a local liquor shop, her glee must stem from the fact that she’s sitting at Ivy Grande in Khar, listening to lounge music, while a waiter refills her glass. “Now this is what I call value-for-money,” she professes.

But Indian-origin wines such as Zinfandel, Shiraz and Chardonnay aren’t the only ones that are affordable. The cafe also stocks international labels from Chile, France, Argentina and Australia and one of the priciest bottles will only set you back by Rs 1,800; approximately the same price as the cheapest bottle of wine on a usual restaurant wine menu around town. “Our international wines are bought in bulk. So, we negotiate rates with our suppliers,” says Sanjay Mirani, a partner at Ivy Grande.

With wine attracting more subsidies than hard liquor, its popularity is rising. For casual diners, it’s a staple for an evening out with friends, even on weekdays. It seems to be filling the large gap between soft drinks and hard liquor. What’s more, it isn’t international wines they want to fork out money for; it’s the local produce.

A big reason for this is the wine producers in India aggressively marketing their products, often tying up with restaurants to promote their wine. “In return, the restaurant is offered royalties or benefits like a bottle free for every bottle purchased,” says Moshe Shek, restaurateur and chef at Moshe’s in Mumbai.

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White Wine Types - What Goes Best With Certain Foods?

Pairing the perfect white wine types with a multicourse meal adds an elegant touch. Or relaxing with a cool glass of wine and a simple snack is an enjoyment for any occasion.

Wine Producing Regions
Many countries produce wine for local consumption and for export. The best known regions with the largest distributions worldwide are in France, California, Italy and Australia. Spain and New Zealand have suitable climates for growing white wine grapes and distribute their wines on a smaller scale. In Greece, wine production has been a way of life since early civilization and continues today.

Other European countries, for instance, Germany and Hungary produce regional varieties and export within Europe and overseas. South American countries, Argentina and Chile, for example, produce vast quantities of high quality wine. In France, the regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Alsace are known for their white wine types of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Voignier and Sauvignon. The same varieties are grown in California in the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valleys and the Central Coast regions. Australia also produces these varieties as well as Semillon and Pinto Grig. Champagne is produced only in France, sparkling wine can be found in California, Italy and many other countries.

Germany produces the wine types Rieslings and Gewürztraminer. Hungarian wines include Chardonnays, Reislings and blended table wines. The wine regions of Spain produce excellent grapes suitable for custom blends and moderately priced table wines. The Italians have extensive knowledge of wine making that has evolved through families for generations. In Italy, the regions from Sicily to Tuscany and Tyrol harbor age-old plantings that produce quality Pinot Grigio grapes.

Sweet Varieties
There are many variations of sweetness or tartness even within a particular type. A wine that is made from only one grape (not blended) is designated as a varietal wine. Typically, the sweeter varietals will always include Reislings. Occasionally, Gewürztraminer and Chenin Blanc can be sweet. Blended wines may have a sweet tendency depending on the grapes that are used. Sweet wines can be enjoyed alone or with cheese or fruit.

Dry Varieties
Usually Chardonnay is considered a dry white wine, although, there are many variations depending on the regional climate. Pinot Gris (or Pinot Grigio), Chenin Blanc and some vintages of Voignier tend to appear dry on the palette. Chardonnays are recommended with fish or poultry.

Dessert and Aperitif Wines
Sherry is a favorite aperitif wine that is often found in Spain. Apertif wines can be semi-sweet or dry and are served sparingly. Champagnes or sparkling wines are often served as an aperitif. Dessert wines are by nature sweet and meant to be enjoyed by sipping from a small liquor or aperitif glass. Sauterne is a popular white dessert wine and Muscat also fits this category. Choosing the best white wine types for a particular occasion depends on personal taste. There are abundant varieties to try.

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South African wine industry rooted in human misery, says report

There is no question of its flair for producing a world-class chenin blanc, cabernet sauvignon or pinotage at an affordable price. But the provenance of South Africa's wines is altogether less savoury, an investigation by human rights monitors has revealed.

Workers on the country's wine and fruit farms lead "dismal, dangerous lives," according to Human Rights Watch (HRW), which found on-site housing unfit for habitation, exposure to pesticides without proper safety equipment, lack of access to toilets or drinking water while working and barriers to union representation.

Farm workers contribute millions to South Africa's economy, with products that are sold in Tesco and other British supermarkets, yet they are among the lowest wage earners in the country, the group's report says.

Daniel Bekele, HRW's Africa director, said: "The wealth and wellbeing these workers produce should not be rooted in human misery. The government and the industries and farmers themselves need to do a lot more to protect people who live and work on farms."

South Africa is the world's seventh-biggest wine producer, filling the equivalent of more than 1.2bn bottles a year. The industry, concentrated in Western Cape province, contributes 26.2bn rand (£2.2bn) to the regional economy, according to a 2009 study. Tourists from around the world enjoy tastings, cellar tours and weddings at vineyards amid glorious scenery between well-heeled towns such as Franschhoek and Stellenbosch.

South Africa has laws guaranteeing wages, benefits and safe working and housing for workers and other farm dwellers. But the government has largely failed to monitor conditions and enforce the law, HRW says.

Its 96-page report, Ripe with Abuse: Human Rights Conditions in South Africa's Fruit and Wine Industries, alleges: "Despite their critical role in the success of the country's valuable fruit, wine, and tourism industries, farm workers benefit very little, in large part because they are subject to exploitative conditions and human rights abuses without sufficient protection of their rights."

Housing for some workers is claimed to be uninhabitable. One farm worker showed researchers a former pig stall, without electricity, water or protection from the elements, where he has lived with his wife and children for 10 years. His wife said: "It makes me very unhappy because I can't guarantee safety of [my] children and can't provide for [them]."

Many workers live on farms with family members as part of their employment arrangement. Their land tenure rights are protected under legislation enacted in 1997. Yet, by civil society estimates, more than 930,000 people were evicted from South African farms between 1994 and 2004.

Interviewees described a steady pace of evictions, particularly when labourers were no longer able to work. Evicted workers who spoke to HRW said they had not been given suitable alternative housing or adequate compensation to find new housing.

Farmers sometimes resort to illegal tactics to force out farm dwellers, including cutting electricity or water. In one case, farm managers cut electricity for more than a year for a family with two children. Security guards on the farm harassed families in the middle of the night with dogs.

HRW also alleges that occupationalhealth and safety conditions on many farms endanger workers. The majority of the current and former farm workers interviewed said they had been exposed to pesticides without adequate safety equipment. In addition, many employers jeopardise workers' health by not providing them with legally required access to drinking water, hand-washing facilities or toilets.

Bekele said: "Given what we know about the effects of pesticide use, it is unconscionable that some of these workers are not provided with appropriate safety equipment, even after they ask for it."

South Africa's wine farms have a painful history. For centuries, workers were paid partly in alcohol in the so-called "dop" system, with pernicious health and social consequences. HRW found these payments had generally disappeared, although it did document two farms that provide wine as partial compensation.

One worker was quoted in the report as saying: "During the week, I am given wine in the afternoon, at 12pm, and at 6pm in the evening. I also get this on Saturdays. On Sundays, we get wine in the morning, afternoon and evening. In the morning, we get it before 7am, at 12pm, and we have to do Sunday prayer and then get more wine at 6.30pm. If you don't want the wine, then it's your choice. Everybody is drinking except the children and the guy driving the school bus."

Farm workers are some of the most poorly organised in the country, It is estimated the percentage of workers represented by trade unions in the Western Cape agricultural sector is just 3%, compared with 30% among those with formal employment nationally. HRW found some farmers try to prevent workers from forming unions in spite of South Africa's constitution and international law.

Bekele said: "The answer is not to boycott South African products, because that could be disastrous for farm workers. But we are asking retailers to press their suppliers to ensure that there are decent conditions on the farms that produce the products they buy and sell to their customers."

The report is based on more than 260 interviews with farm workers, farm owners, civil society members, industry representatives, government officials, lawyers, union officials and academic experts. It did not trace the supply chain for the products and does not identify farms in order to reduce the risk of retaliation against workers.

Representatives of the South African wine industry challenged the report's findings. Su Birch, chief executive of Wines of South Africa, said: "Most of the farm workers interviewed were identified by unions and NGOs, who have a vested interest in presenting the worst of cases. The report plays down the significance of the wine industry's substantial direct financial and indirect contribution to improving working conditions through Wieta [the Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association] and fair trade and empowerment schemes.

"The report makes only the scantiest reference to the many farm owners who comply with all legislation and go way beyond it. For every poor house on a farm, I can show you loads of good ones and some exceptional ones. Wine farmers are currently providing housing for over 200,000 workers, which represents an investment of billions of rands. Our industry is working hard to correct the wrongs of the past, and we accept that there is much work to be done. Even one case of abuse is one too many. But 'ripe with abuse'? I don't think so."

Vineyards have been passed down through generations of white owners. Workers are still invariably black or mixed race, although there are a growing number of black-owned cooperatives and labels.

Sikhula Sonke, a women-led union of farm workers, says its members now earn the minimum wage of 1,375 rand (£115.82) a month, although campaigners believe a living wage should begin at 4,000 rand a month. For years, they have urged Tesco to use its multi-billion pound profits to help improve workers' pay and conditions.

Haidee-Laure Giles, international programmes officer at the anti-poverty group War on Want, said: "Britain ranks among the biggest importers of South African fruit and wine.

"But retailers are maximising their profits at the expense of workers facing daily violations of their labour rights and from very basic to appalling living conditions. The UK government must establish a watchdog to prevent supermarkets benefiting from abuses against overseas workers."

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New York winery pushes 9/11 “memorial” wine

“Epic fail” were the kindest words celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain had for a line of “9/11 memorial commemorative” wines being peddled by a Long Island company ahead of the 10th anniversary of the terrorist attacks.

“Vomit inducing,” “grotesque, exploitative” were the only other family-friendly descriptives Mr. Bourdain had for the wine, which was reportedly briefly on the menu at Les Halles, a New York restaurant where he retains the title chef-at-large.

Despite widespread rage online, Lieb Family Cellars continues to sell its 9/11 Memorial Commemorative Merlot and 9/11 Memorial Commemorative Chardonnay, according to the website. These go for $19.11 (U.S.), while another cheaper vintage, the September Mission Merlot, is a bargain at $9.11.

From their website, the winemakers explain that “the concept emerged at harvest just days after the September 11 disaster.”

“That seems awfully fast,” came Eater’s retort. The Los Angeles Times went easier on the winery, pointing out that charity is involved: “It's a little precious, but all for a good cause,” writes Deborah Netburn.

Six to 10 per cent of the proceeds of the two more expensive wines will go to the National September 11 Memorial and Museum. General manager Gary Madden guesstimated that some $25,000 in sales from the cheaper vintage, rolled out in 2004, had already gone to a separate foundation, according to the Los Angeles Times.

“Your purchase of these wines raises money for these charities, so we encourage you to spread the word and share these guilt-free indulgences with your family and friends,” the winemakers explain on the website.

The Los Angeles Times reports that Lieb initially boasted that its grapes are grown just “90 miles from the site of the World Trade Center,” but this has since been deleted from the website.

In another unfortunate move, the winery promotes a Syrah dedicated to the vineyard’s late dog mascot directly below its line of 9/11 wines. (Twenty per cent of the proceeds are donated to the Animal Medical Center of New York.)

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