Northwest Chardonnay: The Chronicle recommends

For the 2009 vintage, at least, it was Oregon's show in this corner of the country. Following on its exceptional 2008s, the 2009 whites show a winning richness and depth of fruit. Many bottles among the 30 or so we tasted showed style in the winemaking without falling to oak or steel extremes.

Chardonnay-wise, Washington has placed big bets on value bottles, and that's where most of the action is. The state does so many wines well, but in this one spot its southern neighbors are outpacing it. The oak - the wines in general, actually - seemed burlier in 2009, many of them trapped in the Chardonnay style vortex.

No matter: The virtue of the Northwest is beautiful acidity that endures even in broad-shouldered wines. Our top picks showed that brilliant energy - a cornerstone of great Chardonnay.

2009 Cameron Hughes Lot 215 Willamette Valley Chardonnay ($11): As always it's a mystery where super-negociant Hughes unearths his sources, but here's a tribute to his efforts: Nothing flashy, but pretty, ripe apple-driven aromas, with warm tangerine and slight herbal notes. Richer to the taste, with a touch of butter at the end. Chardonnay built to please.

2009 Chehalem Inox Willamette Valley Chardonnay ($17): Harry Peterson-Nedry and his team helped pioneer the unoaked trend with Inox - shifting to a crisp steel-aged effort before it became a trend. Inox remains a standard-bearer, matching the beauty of Oregon fruit in a good, bountiful year with their no-makeup style. A thyme-like edge accents the lean texture. "Chablis-like" is a bear trap of a phrase, but there's a distinct mineral crunch. Edgy, and packed with pear skin and lemon flavors.

2009 Stoller Vineyards SV Estate Dundee Hills Chardonnay ($28): Winemaker Melissa Burr continues to find great expressions from Bill Stoller's popular Dundee vineyard. This latest is concentrated and stylish, with lots of pastry cream notes - no shortage of lees stirring - and a nuanced oak presence. Vibrant fruit here - bright lemon pulp, peach and Anjou pear, plus a briny countenance.

2009 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Arthur Dundee Hills Chardonnay ($30): Drouhin's Chardonnay vines were among the early U.S. efforts with fashionable Dijon clones, and Veronique Boss-Drouhin helped set a high bar for Northwest Chardonnay. The latest Arthur was fermented half in barrel and half in tank; the result is a tension that splits the difference between leanness and an Oregon take on opulence. Polished and slightly leesy, it's packed with dried thyme, subtle toast, apple skin and a black-salt edge.

2009 Bergstrom Old Stones Willamette Valley Chardonnay ($30): Josh Bergstrom's extraordinary talents put a lot of delicious into what he portrays as an early-drinking bottle. Opulent and intense, this shows a subtle oak impact and deep, creamy tones to the bright apple, Meyer lemon and apricot flavors, with a wild-mushroom hint. Don't be afraid to give it a couple years to evolve.

2009 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Columbia Valley Chardonnay ($12): Much bargain Washington Chardonnay takes a no-frills tack, but Columbia Crest has succeeded over time by delivering a classic Chard package: no shortage of oak, but lots of lively fruit and a tartly creamy profile. The flavors are an appealing mix of lemon rind, nutmeg, toasted corn, melon and almond.